France - In some ways, it is just a drop of costly olive oil in a turbid lake, but for 15 women from this poor Paris suburb, it is a chance for a stable and nourishing, if difficult, career.

Inspired by former President Clinton’s admonition for every businessman to do what he can to help others, Alain Ducasse, chef and patron extraordinaire, is putting the women through a professional cooking course, with rigorous work experience at one of his restaurants and a guaranteed job for those who earn their certificates.

All are from Sarcelles, and all were either born outside of France or are first-generation immigrants. Most have a passionate interest in cooking but little knowledge of French cuisine, accustomed instead to North African traditions .

Lynda Kabchou, 34, who was born in Algeria and has three children, feels grateful and anything but patronized. She is away from home for nearly 12 hours a day, with travel into central Paris, where she is working at Mr. Ducasse’s flagship restaurant, in the luxurious Plaza Athenee. Originally assigned to another Ducasse restaurant, Aux Lyonnais, she was happy to prepare and cook pork, but, as a Muslim, refused to taste it. So she was granted a transfer to the Plaza.

“To have a place at the Plaza, it’s not given to everybody,” she said, taking a break from cleaning and cutting up chickens. She is proud to be one of the 80 people who work “in white,” their names embroidered on their uniforms, in this spotless kitchen, which has three Michelin stars.

“They are learning to cut, season, cook, reduce, taste,” Mr. Ducasse said. “Mastery is expertise, the repetition of every move.” He has assigned each of the women a “tutor” in the restaurant .

Aziza Berkouki, 26, is French-born, of Moroccan parents. Married at 19, and with two daughters, 6 and 3, she says she is lucky in that her husband, who works in a paint factory, is willing to do the cleaning at home. “I was born in the kitchen,” she said, describing how she learned to cook from her grandmother and mother. She, too, would like her own restaurant someday, a fusion of French and Moroccan cultures. “I’m entirely French, but I’m entirely Moroccan,” she said. “I want these two nationalities in my cooking.”

But the experience is testing, she said. At her Ducasse restaurant, Benoit, “It’s hard, it’s a world of men,” she said. “The chef is rather tough.” Some of the others see her as “the Arab,” she said .

The women will soon spend three days a week at the restaurants and two days a week at a modern trade school for apprentices in Villiers-le- Bel .

Mr. Ducasse said that this project is like cooking . “Cuisine, it is first a personal satisfaction, it’s very egotistical. First I am happy with what I have made, and then I want to share it. First you prepare for yourself, and then you give it to someone.”


By STEVEN ERLANGER SARCELLES,